This visit got off to an auspicious start. A few days before arriving in Paris, I called the Restaurant Jules Verne on the second stage of the Eiffel Tower for a reservation. "Impossible Monsieur, 'ees a bank 'oliday, fully booked."

I was concerned that the shops would be closed, so I phoned the Concierge at the Hilton to find out. The shops were indeed open, but when I enquired about a restaurant reservation and mentioned that the Jules Verne was full, the Concierge agreed. "It's very difficult. That place is booked up two months ahead. Hold on..." Within two minutes a table had been found. It's not what you know...!

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